Introduction

This is a photo guide to the Cumbria Way which we walked after completing Hadrian's Wall path in June 2008 to make a two week walk.

The 75 mile route takes you from Carlisle in the north, through the spectacular landscape of the Lake District national park to reach Ulverston at the edge of Morecambe Bay. The route heads south through the wild scenery of the northern fells above keswick before dropping down to Derwent Water to follow the beautiful Borrowdale valley. It then crosses Stake Pass to reach Great Langdale where it takes a more gentle journey around Elterwater and Tarn Howes to reach Coniston. Finally it passes along the edge of Coniston water, before heading over the southern fells past beacon tarn and through farmland to reach Ulverston.

This page contains full details of all stages, or you can use the links on the right to view each individual stage. We have also collected together details of the accommodation we stayed in. We hope it will be of some use to those who may be planning to do the walk themselves, or encourage others to give it a try.

Please enjoy our report, and sign our guestbook or leave comments - Rachael & Mark.

Day 1 - Carlisle to Caldbeck

Friday 20th June - 15 miles, 6 1/2 hours

As we had just finished Hadrian's Wall path we were starting the Cumbria Way from the north, the opposite direction to which most guidebooks describe the route.


We had returned to Carlisle from the end of Hadrian's Wall and stayed in Langleigh House for a second night. We set out from here just after 9.00 am and headed into town to pick up a sandwich for our packed lunch.

There is no definite point to really start the walk in the city so we followed the road out past the Citadel, through industrial buildings and gas towers to reach the River Caldew and the official start of the path.



We joined the footpath close to the weir and old mill buildings, now converted to apartments. This took us along the overgrown riverbank towards the prominent chimney at Cummersdale.






From Cummersdale we crossed the river and followed a tarmac cycle track between the river and the railway line. It was now quite sunny and warm as we progressed toward Dalston. We saw a variety of bird life, including reed bunting, yellowhammer, several swallows and a buzzard.

As we neared the village there was a very strong sweet smell emanating from the Nestle factory bordering the path.






Dalston was a large village with a central square surrounded by red sandstone church of St Michael's, a few houses, a handful of shops and the Bluebell pub.




Leaving Dalston behind we passed through the villages of Buckabank and Bridge End. The path headed up away from the river and entered the grounds of Hawksdale Hall. We followed a good track running through very pleasant open farmland.

Beyond the hall the footpath led across the landscaped area around Lime House school.


Soon the view ahead opened out towards the northern fells, although cloud was looming over the tops. We rejoined the river at a bend where sand martins darted to and fro above the water.







The grand building of Rose Castle is the formal residence of the Bishops of Carlisle. We stopped on the riverbank near here for our packed lunch and watched a herd of cows having a drink in the river.

The next stretch took us along the River Caldew for 2.5 miles, then we crossed over the river and followed a track up past Sebergham Hall.





The sun was still shining for us as we reached Sebergham church. The dark clouds still kept passing over the hills ahead. The small church was very pretty with roses growing along the fence.






We dropped down into Sebergham village and crossed the River Caldew for the last time.

We followed along the edge of Dentonside wood, initially on a good track which eventually gave way to a footpath through meadow land.




As the fields came to an end we entered into the mixed conifer and deciduous woodland to follow the ocasionally muddy riverside path. The woods were at times quite dense and provided only brief glimpses of the river. Where the trees thinned bright gleams of sunshine sparkled through.




Half way through the woods the path turned steeply uphill on a less well defined path. Where trees had previous been cleared here young silver birches were shooting up and wild flowers added a splash of colour.

We soon emerged from the woods onto open farmland with great views over the Caldew valley below.


We reached Caldbeck at 3.30. We were staying at the Oddfellows Arms and so headed there and sat in the beer garden to enjoy a cold drink in the afternoon sunshine.






We enjoyed a lovely evening meal in the restaurant at the pub and then had a stroll around the village afterwards.

Evening Meal: Oddfellows Arms - Good choice of tasty food

Day 2 - Caldbeck to Keswick

Saturday 21st June - 18 miles, 7 3/4 hours




The forecast was predicting rain so we set off from Caldbeck debating whether to take the eastern high route over High Pike, or the lower level route to the west. We followed the path and road up to Nether Row where we had to decide.





By the time we reached the farm at Nether Row the few patches of clear sky were quickly disappearing. We opted to take the lower route in the hope that by avoiding high ground we might avoid the worst of the rain also.

This first section was very pleasant with good views back to Caldbeck.





Despite the lower route being a few miles longer, it was very easy walking following the contours of Caldbeck Fells.

We also saw a variety of wildlife on our way including a fox slinking across the fields and a brief glimpse of a red squirrel darting through the trees.





As we rounded the slopes of Longlands Fell we got a view across to Over Water. We also now saw the thick band of grey cloud moving closer, with the hills disappearing one by one. Just a few minutes later we were stopping to put on our waterproofs.



Leaving the road at Orthwaite we dropped down through fields towards Little Tarn. On a nearby telegraph pole we saw a buzzard. We stopped to admire it for a short while before continuing on over a stile. As we did so, it took off and circled overhead and started swooping closely above us. It suddenly dived at us only missing our heads by a few centimeters. We increased our pace trying to keep an eye out for it but it continued to pursue us and after several near misses it walloped onto Rachael's head. Fortunately the only damage was a couple of small puncture holes in the waterproof hood and bit of a bruised head! We sped up and soon passed by what ever it was protecting as it left us alone and to our relief disappeared.


We soon dropped down into the wooded valley surrounding Halls Beck. Under the protection of the trees we stopped for some lunch.




After just a few fields we reached the track that began the ascent up the northern slopes of the Skiddaw fells following Dash Beck up towards Whitewater Dash waterfall. The rain was quickly filling the small streams that crossed the path.





A brief cessation of the rain provided a good view back down the valley.






The wind picked up as we passed up onto open moorland heading towards Skiddaw House youth hostel.





Cloud lingered over the summit of Skiddaw. As we neared Skiddaw House we were joined by the eastern path. The view back towards High Pike was dark and grey, and the rain began to fall much harder. The path followed around the contour of the steep slopes of Lonscale Fell. We could only imagine what good views there could be from here on a good day.






Foxgloves added a splash of colour to the view down Whit Beck.






The cloud occasionally lifted just enough to give us a grey view of Keswick and Derwent Water, with the surrounding fells disappearing into thicker cloud.


We were glad to arrive in Keswick late in the afternoon. We reached Heatherlea Bed & Breafast dripping wet and stripped off the soggy waterproofs into binbags. These were promptly taken away to be dried out for us in the tumble drier.




We had plenty of choice for food and drink in Keswick that evening. We decided on the Bank Tavern as it came recommended by our hosts.

Evening meal: Bank Tavern - Excellent food and great value

Day 3 - Extra Day in Keswick

We stayed for two nights in Keswick. The initial plan was to have a leisurely day walking without our bags and to enjoy Derwent Water. Unfortunately the weather changed our plans as the rain did not stop.

We ventured out briefly in the wet to walk down to the lake and a little way along the shore. The wind was very strong and hard to walk against. The lake was very choppy, looking more like the sea with large waves. There was no sign of the launch, and not much sign of people either. The water level had risen, flooding the lakeside path and so we soon returned to the warmth and comfort of our B&B for the afternoon.

Evening Meal: Star of Siam Thai Restaurant - Excellent food

Day 4 - Keswick to Great Langdale

Monday 23rd June - 16.5 miles, 8 1/2 hours





We were relieved to wake to a much brighter calmer day. With all our clothes washed and dried we were ready to set off again. We left Keswick just before 10am, passing over the very full River Greta to reach the lake side at the North West edge.





We followed the woodland path to Hawes End, then down to the waters edge at Victoria Bay. There were great views across the lake towards Skiddaw and Blencathra. The lake looked so calm and beautiful in the sunshine, a complete contrast to the angry uninviting one of the previous day.

The water level around Brandelhow Bay was very high, with the footpath underwater in places.








As we reached the end of Derwent Water the path headed through bracken and across boardwalks over marshy areas towards Grange. The wooded peak of Castle Crag stood directly ahead in the sunshine, marking the entrance to Borrowdale.






It was a very pleasant walk through the Borrowdale woodlands close to the River Derwent. The trees now mask much of the remains of the quarries that once covered Castle Crag. An amazing mix of colours are noticeable in the slate here.


Shortly after emerging from the trees, we crossed the River Derwent via a packhorse bridge and then left it behind to reach the pretty village of Rosthwaite.





The path leaves Rosthwaite via a walled track into the steep sided valley of Stonethwaite with Eagle Crag dominating the view ahead.







We stopped for our packed lunch looking back across Stonethwaite Beck with Dale Head and High Spy clearly in view.





We heard Galleny Force more than we saw it. There was far more water in the beck than the last time we were here (walking the Inn Way to the Lake District). At the base of Eagle Crag where Greenup Gill and Langstrath Beck converge the path crosses the smaller river to head up the beautiful wilder Langstrath valley.






The Herdwick sheep thrive well in these remote areas, and seemed to really be enjoying the afternoon sunshine.




We now felt really in the heart of Cumbria. This section proved to be our favourite of the walk with incredible scenery all around.


As we reached the footbridge across Stake Beck the path turned steeply upwards beside the tumbling beck, the view expanding with every step.








At the end of the climb up Stake Pass the path levelled out to cross Langdale Combe, the boggy watershed between Langstrath and Langdale. Ahead we could see the shadowy bulk of Bowfell Buttress and Great Slab. Very close to our left was the pointed peak of Pike of Stickle.






Very soon we began the steep descent beside Stake Gill into Mickleden, with amazing views along the length of Great Langdale.






The track along Mickleden was still very wet from the previous two days of rain. We passed by the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel to reach Millbeck Farm B&B.





Evening Meal: Sticklebarn Tavern - Good basic food, good choice of beer

Day 5 - Great Langdale to Little Langdale

Tuesday 24th June - 10 miles, 6 3/4 hours




We left our bed and breakfast about 10 o'clock and headed across the valley to rejoin the path. There was a great view back along the valley towards Bowfell and Crinkle Crags. The distinctive outlines of the Langdale Fells could be seen close by and were to remain a dominant feature for much of the day.


From Oak Howe the walking was easy across low lying fields towards Chapel Stile and then woodland track to Elterwater village.






We had been told at the bed and breakfast that the valley had been flooded with the heavy rains two days previous. The effects of the floods could be seen clearly with debris washed against fences and trees.


It was all very peaceful and calm on Elterwater.




A sudden change occurs from the calm meandering river as it reaches the narrow gorge which creates Skelwith Force waterfall. Here we took the alternative route through the woods to avoid the main road at Skelwith Bridge. The path now changed direction and headed towards the quiet valley of Little Langdale.





We took the branch of the path closest to the river to see the falls at Colwith Force. Unfortunately the trees obscure much of the view, but glimpses can be seen at a few points. We sat nearby to have lunch, and watched a nuthatch foraging in a tree.




We had decided to break the section into two days, with a detour into Little Langdale for an extra day to explore the area.

From High Park we took the track down to the pretty spot at Slater Bridge near Little Langdale Tarn.


Continuing along this track we passed Bridge End Farm and then reached our booked B&B at Fell Foot Farm.




On arrival we found a note on the door for us to say that we would not be able to stay. Unsure what to do, we checked out the map and decided to walk down the road to Little Langdale village where there was a pub. This turned out to be the Three Shires Inn who were very helpful and luckily had a room available, and provided excellent food.




Evening Meal: Three Shires Inn - Lovely menu and great food

Day 6 - Extra Day in Little Langdale

The initial plan of our extra day being spent walking up Wetherlam and Swirl How was put on hold when we woke up and saw the weather. Once again the rain was pouring down. For a time we waited in the lounge at the Three Shires Inn hoping that things might improve, but in the end we ventured outside in the wet for a low level walk.



We walked down to Tilberthwaite passing many disused quarries. We also took the opportunity to search for some geocaches in the area. One was hidden inside a cave which provided a few minutes of shelter from the continuing rain.

By the time we reached Low Tilberthwaite the rain had finally stopped, but the cloud was still low over the surrounding summits. We sat and ate our packed lunch beside the stream.







From Low Tilberthwaite we headed back towards Little Langdale Tarn where we came across some very wet looking highland cattle.

As the afternoon progressed the cloud began to lift and eventually the Langdale Fells could be seen clearly once more. Even a glimpse of sunshine was seen over the Tarn.

We continued up and around Blea Tarn before returning to the Three Shires Inn for a second night.

Evening Meal: Three Shires Inn - Lovely menu and great food

Day 7 - Little Langdale to Coniston

Thursday 26th June - 6.5 miles, 2 1/2 hours



The day started dry but overcast, with more rain due to arrive in the afternoon. As we only had a short day we hoped we would reach Coniston by lunch time before it arrived.

We left Little Langdale and rejoined the path heading towards Tarn Hows. This section was on a variety of walled tracks with the occasional view of the pleasant wooded valley.






Much of the view of Tarn Hows was obscured by trees providing only brief glimpses of the water until we reached the far end. It's hard to believe this has all been man made.


Leaving the tarn behind we made our way steeply down a road into Yewdale. Cloud was descending, and covered the tops of the Coniston Fells. Foxgloves brightened up the view on this dull day.






We reached the pretty Tarn Hows cottage and wood, then shortly began descending towards Coniston. As the town came into view the promised rain arrived, though not too heavy thankfully. We paused at the old gothic style barn which housed information about the surrounding estate lands.


On arriving in Coniston we called in to the Sun Inn for lunch, and to dry out a little before heading to Dixon Ground Farm B&B not far away.





We spent the afternoon visiting the Ruskin Museum. The museum provides details of John Ruskin and his works but also houses exhibits relating to local history which include the coppermines, slate, lace and geology. There is also a large section dedicated to Donald Campbell and his water speed world record attempts.

Lunchtime Meal: Sun Inn - Great value tasty food
Evening Meal: The Black Bull - Good food, excellent own brewed beer

Day 8 - Coniston to Ulverston

Friday 27th June - 18.5 miles, 8 1/2 hours




We started the last day of our walk by heading down to Coniston lake to reach the grounds of Coniston Hall and camp site. Looking back grey cloud still lingered over the fell tops.




The path now followed closely to the edge of the lake for quite a way. Initially the path was very easy underfoot, but gradually became rougher going with numerous ups and downs, twists and bends over tree roots and rocks. The lake was surprisingly quiet with few boats out on it.


There was a good view from Torver jetty, a stopping place for the Coniston passenger launch however there was no sign of it.









Reluctantly we left behind the lake to head up towards Torver Common. The previous days of rain had filled Torver Beck providing an impressive series of small waterfalls below the footbridge.





There were patches of blue sky and sunshine as we made our way through bracken across Torver Common.





As the path levelled out across open ground there were fantastic views back to the Coniston Fells. We gradually began to climb again through Blawith Fells to reach Beacon Tarn.






Beacon Tarn sits in a natural hollow, a very calm and relaxing area protected from the wind by the surrounding hills. In a few places the path became boggy as it ventured close to the edge of the Tarn.





As we climbed away from the tarn the hills behind began to recede into the distance and we had the disappointing feeling that we were now leaving the lake district behind. Ahead the scenery was changing with wider views of gently rolling farmland and in the distance our first glimpse of the sea.





The cloud thickened and darkened, bringing initially fine drizzle that turned heavier as the afternoon went on. By the time we reached Ulverston we were soaked once again.

The monument marks the official end (or beginning) of the Cumbria Way, but we still had further to walk as we had decided that Canal Foot would provide a memorable end to our holiday, overlooking Morecambe Bay.


We walked through the town to the Ulverston Canal basin where we joined the canal path. Ulverston Canal which is claimed to be the deepest, widest and straightest canal in the UK was built to carry Ships from morecambe bay into the heart of Ulverston.




The canal is mostly tree lined and the large GlaxoSmithKline factory which is situated on the opposite bank was surprisingly unobtrusive. It provided a pleasant final section to the walk especially as the rain had finally stopped.





The canal ends with the now redundant sea lock and beyond great views across the Morecambe bay to Cartmel Sands and Leven Viaduct.




Our bed and breakfast for the night was Honeysuckle Barn. We finished our day with a fantastic meal at the Bay Horse Hotel overlooking the sea.

Evening Meal: Bay Horse Hotel - Fantastic food although quite expensive. Amazing deserts

Accommodation

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1.Carlisle
Langleigh House, 6 Howard Place, Carlisle CA1 1HR




Contact:
Yvette Rogers
Tel: 01228 530440
Web: www.langleighhouse.co.uk
Grid Ref: NY 407 559
Distance from route: 0.3 mile
Cost: £70 - double, en-suite room

Comments:
Lovely house with large very comfortable room. Owners very friendly. A nice quiet area of town with a short walk to city centre. Good breakfast.

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2.Caldbeck
Oddfellows Arms, Caldbeck, Cumbria CA7 8EA





Contact:
Oddfellows Arms
Tel: 01697 478227
Web: www.oddfellows-caldbeck.co.uk
Grid Ref: NY 324 398
Distance from route: on route
Cost: £60 - double, en-suite room

Comments:
Comfortable clean room situated to the side of the pub

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3.Keswick
Heatherlea Guest House, 26 Blencathra Street, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 4HP





Contact:
Bob Lewin & Helen Hurton
Tel: 017687 72430
Web: www.heatherlea-keswick.co.uk
Grid Ref: NY 271 235
Distance from route: 0.25 mile
Cost: £60 - double, en-suite room

Comments:
Lovely bed and breakfast, very friendly and helpful hosts, great spotlessly clean comfortable room.

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4.Great Langdale
Millbeck Farm, Great Langdale, Near Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 9JU





Contact:
Eric & Sue Taylforth
Tel: 015394 37364
Web: www.millbeckfarm.co.uk

Grid Ref: NY 295 066
Distance from route: 0.1 mile
Cost: £48 - double, shared bathroom

Comments:
Very cosy farmhouse room. Good breakfast.

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5.Little Langdale
Three Shires Inn, Little Langdale, Ambleside, English Lake District,Cumbria, LA22 9NZ




Contact:
Three Shires Inn
Tel: 015394 37215
Web: www.threeshiresinn.co.uk
Grid Ref: NY 317 034
Distance from route: 0.9 mile
Cost: £78 - double, en-suite room



Comments:
Very friendly and helpful staff. Good comfortable room. Excellent food.

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6.Coniston
Dixon Ground Farm, Coniston, Cumbria LA21 8HQ




Contact:
Suzanna Johnston
Tel: 015394 41443
Web: www.dixongroundfarm.co.uk
Grid Ref: SD 299 976
Distance from route: 0.15 mile
Cost: £60 - Twin, en-suite room

Comments:
Very comfortable spotlessly clean room. Good breakfast and packed lunch.

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7. Ulverston
Honeysuckle Barn Bed & Breakfast, Canal Foot, Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 9EL




Contact:
Helen Parker
Tel: 01229 585089
Web: www.honeysucklebarn.net/
Grid Ref: SD 313 776
Distance from route: 2 miles
Cost: £60 - Double, en-suite room

Comments:
Lovely comfortable clean room.