Day 2 - Caldbeck to Keswick

Saturday 21st June - 18 miles, 7 3/4 hours




The forecast was predicting rain so we set off from Caldbeck debating whether to take the eastern high route over High Pike, or the lower level route to the west. We followed the path and road up to Nether Row where we had to decide.





By the time we reached the farm at Nether Row the few patches of clear sky were quickly disappearing. We opted to take the lower route in the hope that by avoiding high ground we might avoid the worst of the rain also.

This first section was very pleasant with good views back to Caldbeck.





Despite the lower route being a few miles longer, it was very easy walking following the contours of Caldbeck Fells.

We also saw a variety of wildlife on our way including a fox slinking across the fields and a brief glimpse of a red squirrel darting through the trees.





As we rounded the slopes of Longlands Fell we got a view across to Over Water. We also now saw the thick band of grey cloud moving closer, with the hills disappearing one by one. Just a few minutes later we were stopping to put on our waterproofs.



Leaving the road at Orthwaite we dropped down through fields towards Little Tarn. On a nearby telegraph pole we saw a buzzard. We stopped to admire it for a short while before continuing on over a stile. As we did so, it took off and circled overhead and started swooping closely above us. It suddenly dived at us only missing our heads by a few centimeters. We increased our pace trying to keep an eye out for it but it continued to pursue us and after several near misses it walloped onto Rachael's head. Fortunately the only damage was a couple of small puncture holes in the waterproof hood and bit of a bruised head! We sped up and soon passed by what ever it was protecting as it left us alone and to our relief disappeared.


We soon dropped down into the wooded valley surrounding Halls Beck. Under the protection of the trees we stopped for some lunch.




After just a few fields we reached the track that began the ascent up the northern slopes of the Skiddaw fells following Dash Beck up towards Whitewater Dash waterfall. The rain was quickly filling the small streams that crossed the path.





A brief cessation of the rain provided a good view back down the valley.






The wind picked up as we passed up onto open moorland heading towards Skiddaw House youth hostel.





Cloud lingered over the summit of Skiddaw. As we neared Skiddaw House we were joined by the eastern path. The view back towards High Pike was dark and grey, and the rain began to fall much harder. The path followed around the contour of the steep slopes of Lonscale Fell. We could only imagine what good views there could be from here on a good day.






Foxgloves added a splash of colour to the view down Whit Beck.






The cloud occasionally lifted just enough to give us a grey view of Keswick and Derwent Water, with the surrounding fells disappearing into thicker cloud.


We were glad to arrive in Keswick late in the afternoon. We reached Heatherlea Bed & Breafast dripping wet and stripped off the soggy waterproofs into binbags. These were promptly taken away to be dried out for us in the tumble drier.




We had plenty of choice for food and drink in Keswick that evening. We decided on the Bank Tavern as it came recommended by our hosts.

Evening meal: Bank Tavern - Excellent food and great value

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